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Revo Slot - Carrera Chip Install

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  • Revo Slot - Carrera Chip Install

    Hello, just wondering if anyone has installed a Carrera Chip in their Revo Slot car with aluminum chassis? If so, could you pass along some pics of the install? I've been thinking of creating a template of a Carrera Chip to ease the install going forward when I am installing a chip into a chassis that is strictly Analog. Just have not had the time yet to measure and make something up.

    Thanks for any help you can send my way.

  • #2
    Should be plenty of room with the nice flat chassis. Standard Carrera decoder should be ok, I have never actually fitted one (I have only used custom built aftermarket ones) but maybe make use of the factory mounting hole on a plastic stand-off post? If you are lucky you might be able to line up the switch with the hole in the revo-slot chassis. I am guessing that you may need to run very short wires to the IR LED. Well that is all I can comment on, I hope someone qualified with some experience can answer your question better than I could!

    Just be wary of v118 of the 26732 decoder (marked CAR047A - V118 on the PCB) as there is a batch issue with regards to the installed motor drive FET. (hopefully will be resolved with further releases) Apart from that the 26732 is a good decoder, I am sorry I cannot recall any of the other decoder types at this moment but there should be several that are suitable. They do like some convection cooling/airflow so don't sandwich them too closely to the aluminium pan.

    Aftermarket decoders might be easier to fit due to smaller size. Maybe some kapton tape or mylar sheet or suitable tape to insulate the chassis.

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    • #3
      I did it to one of mine. It's not too bad. The chassis is pre-drilled for the chip. You can also use the Slottechnik chip which is much smaller. The draw back is the price. Here is the link to a NSR Carrera chip install. The wire connections should be the same. Here's a Slot.it conversion. Sadly, I didn't video the Revo chip install.

      Bruce
      Cincyslots.com

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      • #4
        Slotspeed, Cincyslots........thank you very much for the reply as well as posting the links, I really appreciate the help. I am new to the slot car hobby so any help I can get thrown my way I really appreciate.

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        • #5
          Open with Chrome for a translation: https://www.freeslotter.de/index.php...igitalisieren/ .
          The third post has photos where he used an insulated standoff.

          A picture is worth a thousand words, especially if you don’t speak German. Go to https://www.slotblog.de/slotblog-videos/ , then go to page three. There is a video for Carrera chip installation in a Supra. Jump to 4:26 for a look at decoder installation. Very end of video has some good shots, also.

          Somewhere on one of those sites was a Shapeways printed standoff. It screwed to the chassis and the chip screws to it, insulating chip from aluminum. That appears to what was used in the Slotblog video.
          Last edited by WB2; February 12, 2020, 01:32 AM. Reason: Additional information.

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          • #6
            I think you have to be signed in as a member to see the photos on freeslotter? Looks quite simple, difficult to see the LED in the photos but looks like it is there. Was the hole for the LED already there?

            Someone also posted a Carrera chipped Revo-Slot Porsche on the Carrera NA facebook group yesterday.

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            • #7
              Holes are there for switch and LED. While I’m not mr. digital, it appears the big thing on Rev Slot cars is insulating the chip from the metal chassis.
              I‘ve noticed a number of the installations have the LED remotely mounted and the chip mounted next to the motor with double-sided tape. This tact was used for clearance issues with the body or interior.

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              • #8
                Here is how mine eventually turned out. I used double sided tape / velcro located on the back portion of the bottom of the chip. The hold is very strong with a slight sense of give to soak up any vibrations. Seems to do the trick rather nicely. For my next one I would actually like to make a plastic bracket. I hear Slot.it makes one for their cars and I do not see why it would not fit the Revoslot. Might be easier just to purchase the Slot.it version of the bracket instead of reinventing the wheel like I so often like to do. Anyone else like making things harder on themselves like I find myself doing so often?

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                • #9
                  Looks very neat. Did the switch and the LED line up with the existing holes?

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Apexdreamer50 View Post
                    Anyone else like making things harder on themselves like I find myself doing so often?
                    LOL, I do. I've been replacing the Carrera wire on the chip with higher grade motor and guide wire.

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Slotspeed View Post
                      Looks very neat. Did the switch and the LED line up with the existing holes?
                      Yes the switch and LED line up perfectly in the Revoslot chassis, they certainly did their homework when they looked into making this chassis Carrera Digital compatible. I certainly enjoy building these slot car kits, I am old school I guess really like building. However for a few dollars more you get a nicely painted body with graphics that I could never replicate. So its a little give and take with these kits. I will certainly build more as things go forward but I will also continue to buy cars already assembled just for their liveries.

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Eric P View Post

                        LOL, I do. I've been replacing the Carrera wire on the chip with higher grade motor and guide wire.
                        You must have some very steady hands when soldering onto that board. What kind of eyes do you have by the way in order just to see the solder pads on the chip? I really need to invest in one of those magnifiers that mounts to your head if I am going to keep soldering these small wires. Honestly my eyes got immediately worse when I turned 40. I got tested and was told to start wearing glasses but never did. I am now 50 and they have continued to get worse. Note to self; get on Ebay and look for headgear magnifier.

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Apexdreamer50 View Post

                          You must have some very steady hands when soldering onto that board. What kind of eyes do you have by the way in order just to see the solder pads on the chip? I really need to invest in one of those magnifiers that mounts to your head if I am going to keep soldering these small wires. Honestly my eyes got immediately worse when I turned 40. I got tested and was told to start wearing glasses but never did. I am now 50 and they have continued to get worse. Note to self; get on Ebay and look for headgear magnifier.
                          I've got you beat by six years and I'm in the same boat. I use bright lights and a head visor with the magnifying lenses. Pre tinning the chip and the wire makes the job quick work. Heat is good, but too much is bad and $$
                          I think I have some pictures in the Chipped cars for Carrera thread. I'v recently done a Fly Lola T70 and Fly Ferrari 512 CL

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                          • #14
                            I’ll have to check out the pics your referring to......and of course invest in some better lighting over my workbench

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Eric P View Post

                              I've got you beat by six years and I'm in the same boat. I use bright lights and a head visor with the magnifying lenses. Pre tinning the chip and the wire makes the job quick work. Heat is good, but too much is bad and $$
                              I think I have some pictures in the Chipped cars for Carrera thread. I'v recently done a Fly Lola T70 and Fly Ferrari 512 CL
                              Yes, agree, for this kind of joint, pre tinning is the way to go, then a reflow of the two together, makes for a good joint, making sure it dosen't move while cooling down and checking for a shiny finish afterwards. Taking care not to take too long.

                              Years of practice soldering and I sometimes can't quite see what I am doing and go a little bit by feel as well as looking, then inspect under a magnifier. Probably should be using the magnifier for the whole job!

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