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  • About PIN TUBES

    All of my scratch building is based on the Harry Wise "Showdown"/"Stinker" type inline chassis, unless I occasionally build a few on the LVJ Champ chassis. Harry's chassis perform very well, and teach you basic scratch building ! They also address the body mounting issue, very well. Well, for hard bodies, I guess I might say. When I occasionally use a soft, Clear Body, I have had some problems, getting them to "act right", mounting !! What I need, is for someone to guide me into the knowledge of mounting clear bodies, using The PIN TUBES Method ! Can this be adapted to the type of chassis I build ? How does the system work ? Can I buy a Tube and Pins "kit"? Or, how do I build the Tubes, and what kinds of Pins can be used ? I know, quite a few questions, but I Really need to know ! From the little I know, I think, ultimately, TUBES, and Pins (or Clips) are still, even today, probably the best way to mount those darned, soft, Clear Bodies !

  • #2
    I'll hope Chris answers this. He does a super job.
    Matt B
    So. In
    Crashers

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    • 6666hotrod
      6666hotrod commented
      Editing a comment
      ...lol, Thanks, Matt !

    • Brumos RSR
      Brumos RSR commented
      Editing a comment
      We stand when we read posts made by SirChrisGuyW

  • #3
    Pin tubes can be made from 1/16" OD brass tube. The ID is very small, and all you do is take a common flat headed sewing pin and stick it through the body where the tubes are soldered on the chassis.
    The pins should be bent slightly, because the bend creates friction which keeps them from popping out. Most racers bend them in two different directions so you get a bit of an S shape to them.
    You can put rip-stop tent repair tape on the inside of the body to help reinforce the holes. There are also small steel plates with tiny holes made to reinforce pin holes, if you really need it to be rugged.

    You can paint the pin heads to match the body color as well if you want to hide them better.
    Come Race at The Trace!
    Timberline Trace International Raceway - SW of Mpls, MN
    https://cults3d.com/en/users/chappyman662/creations

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    • 6666hotrod
      6666hotrod commented
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      Thank you

  • #4
    I like the pin tube set up - but another option you may want to consider is to add a vertical plate the to the end of your body mount tabs and mount hook and look (velcro) tape to it and the inside of the body - very similar to what is commonly done with the Parma FCR / Mid-America GRC chassis. An example of a GRC chassis with the velcro attached is shown below. It is a robust and easy attachment method that is a nice alternative to pin tubes. (our local group has two classes running these chassis utilizing this method of body mounting and it definitely works well!)

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    • #5
      Hi 6666hotrod, Using pin tubes/pins has been THE way to mount clear Lexan/PETG/Butyrate bodies for decades, and while there are certainly other good methods (velcro) pin tubes are still the most often used method.

      As mentioned, there is nothing special about the tubes......1/16 od brass tube cut to length and soldered to the chassis side pans , there are some thinner walled tubes available (lighter, and used for high end wing cars) but for your purposes, plain old 1/16 tubing is perfect.

      As far as pins, common straight pins are just fine, but, most good commercial slot shops (Mid America, Buena Park, PCH etc.) do sell "big head" pins which do help in stopping the pin heads pulling through the body material.......these are more critical on the very high speed commercial type cars, and you should be just fine with normal pins (reinforcing the holes in the Lexan is advisable if you use normal pins.

      As far as mounting, cut the body (before painting) along the mold lines, and drop it over the chassis (still unpainted).....set the ride height of the body and put a dot (using a fine tipped Sharpie) where you want the holes to be. Use a pin, or a very small drill bit to poke a hole/drill a hole in the body. Do one at a time, rechecking the position of the Sharpie dots to ensure that they are where you want them. Remove the body and using a sharp Xacto blade cut any bits of lexan that are around the inside of the holes in the body.

      For reinforcement, around the pin holes in the body, you can use clear packing tape, or adhesive backed nylon webbing sold for tent repair. I generally use "body armour" which is again sold at most commercial slot shops,....this is an adhesive backed Lexan sheet which is cut into small circles/squares and stuck onto the body over the pin holes.
      The nylon webbing (if used) is best used on the inside of the body, as not to distract from the look of the car. You can cut clear packing tape into thin 1/4 strips, and stick them to the inside of the body, wrapping the strips under the bottom of the side body sills and up the outside of the body to cover the holes. (Apply any re inforcement after the body is painted).


      Remove the body and paint........

      Cheers
      Chris Walker

      Pin tubes soldered to the side pans




      Another example of pin tubes soldered to side pans.....



      And if you look closely, you can see the "Body Armour" stuck to the sides of the body, over the pin holes.....

      Click image for larger version

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      • 6666hotrod
        6666hotrod commented
        Editing a comment
        Terrific, Chris : I appreciate all of you helping me. But as mattb hinted, you Nailed my questions !! I feel like I will have a better handle on dealing with the clear bodies, when I need to use them, in the future. Thank you !
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