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Question : If you're going to build a Showdown type Chassis, WITHOUT Using The Axle Tube, wouldn't you need to use a different single-flange Oilite Bushing, than the 3/32 x 3/16 bushing that fits inside the 7/32 round tube ? What 3/32 Bushing, would you use with an outside diameter that corresponds with the hole in the JK C86 motor bracket ??
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I forget the size of the bushing but to solder directly to the JK bracket you will need to drill out the hole a bit. -
Most good shops sell 3/32 x 1/4 oilites,.....a couple of strokes with a round file on the bracket bushing holes, and you are in business. If you plan to do a few of these, a tapered reamer will do the job quickly and accurately.
I do not know of a 3/32 x 7/32 oilite....................the JKC86 is most commonly used by the D3/Retro guys, who like to use the axle tubes to widen the position of the rear bushings........this results in a more stable rear axle, and reduces the load/wear on the oilites. As most of the guys use 3/32 x 3/16 bushings which are a nice fit into a 7/32 tube , the hole size for the JK brackets is 7/32.
Always a good idea to use jig wheels/blocks to ensure the vertical alignment of the bushings while soldering.
Cheers
Chris Walker
Last edited by chrisguyw; April 1, 2022, 01:40 PM.Comment
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There you go! An email or phone call will have what you need in a few days.Matt B
So. In
CrashersComment
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Most JK brackets have 7/32" holes because they were manufactured to be used with 7/32" tubing & 3/16" bushings. That tubing is 7/32" O. D., 3/16" I.D.. One way to install your 3/16" bushings would be to make some 1/16" wide rings from 7/32" tubing. Then glue or solder the rings to the flanged bushings. Now your bushings fit the bracket holes perfectly because you just shimmed the bushings to 7/32". If you choose to enlarge the 7/32" bracket holes to fit 1/4" bushings, as some have said, you risk bending &/or weaking the bracket. Are you not wanting to use an axle tube in the bracket because you are space-limited?Comment
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I just realized I never wanted to be asked "Why" I don't wanna use the axle tube, lol !
Well, answer is two-fold : 1, just to speed-up and simplify The Build, and, most importantly, 2, because of my rotary tool : I have come up with alternative ways of cutting brass, because I will not spend any more money on those flimsy cutting disks.
It's the most infuriating, unpleasant part of scratch building a chassis ! Before I can really begin getting my cutting done, I break disk after disk after disk !! It's not me : disks are just cheap, flimsy and no-good ! I would think, they
would make some kind of sharp, metal disk, that easily cuts brass/metal.
So, instead of having to cut the darn tube, after it's in the motor bracket, I'd rather eliminate the tube. I've even built one chassis, with two short individual tubes, on either side of the motor bracket holes : I suspect a good potential for binding, if those two short tubes aren't Perfectly straight.
I've noticed several scratch builds done Harry Wise style, but not using the axle tube.
I also understand, there are good, even Specific, reasons for using the axle tube. But I intend to try a couple of chassis, without The Tube, for my own personal experience, and see how I like it. -
Hot Rod, I built my beach racer chassis without the tube and it works fine. As for cutting with those flimsy disks Chris Walker did a how to cut brass video, I think a link is in the scratch build section of the home page here. I followed his simple advice and didn’t break one disc. And believe me I used to curse those stupid discs to.
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