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Carrera C8 Tuning

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  • Carrera C8 Tuning

    Carrera C8 Tuning

    I’ve started going through one of my new Carrera C8 Corvettes for use on our local Norcal Raceways. There are some good videos out there but I thought I would share a few things I learned along the way.
    Our rules are pretty basic: Any brand rubber (stock width), Guide, Wire and Braid change OK, Floating the chassis is allowed as is adding weight (non magnet). We run Carrera and Scalextric GT3 cars together so stock motors preferred but Carrera cars are allowed to run 18K "P" motors (Predator and Piranha) as the stock motor is typically underpowered at 16.5K.


    First, the car is heavy at 114.3 grams. There's not much you can do about this but there are a couple of things that help.
    • I removed the light kits and associated wiring.
    • I removed the 2 screws holding the interior tray to the body and replaced them with fabricated plastic pins.
    • Replaced magnets with lead weight.
    My car now weighs 105.1 grams.

    Next, the rear tires were replaced and fronts were trimmed onto the stock rims.
    • The stock fronts were Ø21.3mm and were reduced to Ø20.5 (glued and trued).
    • The stock rears were Ø22.5. I replaced these with NSR 5236 Super Classic Tires and cut them to Ø23.2 after gluing. These tires have been gooped with NSR tire prep.
    I decided to use the stock Carrera Guide and add a Slot Invasion Blade. The guide sits really high off the tire plane even with the reduced diameter front tires. There is no height adjustment for the stock guide assemble except by reducing the height of the chassis lip where the guide assembly screws into.
    • Using a file, I reduced the height of the chassis lip by 1mm (I may need to further reduce this in the future but needed to start somewhere).
    • I wanted softer braid so replaced the stock Carrera Braid with NSR.
    • After reassembling everything I found the guide still too high therefore I added a 0.75mm shim to the bottom of each front axle hole. I also dressed back the top lead-ins to gain clearance. Upon reassembling, this moved the ride height of the front wheels and further lowered the front of the car.
    As our rules allow for a motor change I went with and 18K Predator while retaining the stock pinion. I added a small amount of reinforced CA before sliding the pinion into position.

    I changed out the body screws to some SCC M2.6 x 8 relieved shoulder types in hopes of getting more float from the chassis. In general, this car is very tight to the chassis and I am still looking for areas where I can get float. I’ll update on this if/when I find further solutions.

    That is pretty much what I have done so far. I tested the car at Cedric’s Emeryville Raceway this last weekend and it was good out of the box (on a track I had zero previous experience on). I will further tune on Silicon City Raceway soon.
    I’m hoping others will share some of their C8 secrets as they discover them?

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  • #2
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ID:	156384 Worked on body float today. The rear of the chassis is right up against the body posts/light perches. Being I'm not keeping the lights (due to weight) I removed them. Pictures attached. Click image for larger version

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    Comment


    • #3
      Great write up! I have the No#3, Can't wait to take a crack at mine.
      Mike - Galena Ohio

      "When you're back there with the squirrels, you're bound to get your nuts cracked." - Graham Rahal

      https://www.hrwforum.com/forum/hrw-a...gends-bullring

      Comment


      • Aptosc6
        Aptosc6 commented
        Editing a comment
        Thanks. Let us all know what approaches you take with your car.

    • #4
      Nice job, .........as you have used shims to raise the front axle to lower the ride height, I assume that raising the front axle is OK in your rule set. If that is the case, why not use some SCC adjustable axle blocks glued inboard of the front axle cups ?? . This will allow greater flexibility of ride height adjustment (for various tracks) and will more critically allow left to right adjustments which will eliminate the effects of any slight twists in the chassis.

      Cheers
      Chris Walker

      Comment


      • Aptosc6
        Aptosc6 commented
        Editing a comment
        Thanks. That would be another, more universal way to do the front axle height adjustment. I'm guessing the tech guys might have an issue with something as obvious as the axle blocks.

      • WB2
        WB2 commented
        Editing a comment
        So you’re liberally interpreting the rules?
        Wink, wink.

      • Aptosc6
        Aptosc6 commented
        Editing a comment
        Not being loose with the rules. We are allowed to tune the front diameter of the tires to get the guide height right. My version of doing that without modifying the chassis in any way.

    • #5
      After tuning my C8’s, glued and trued (XPG), float and weight, they both were about .4 sec slower than my fastest Carrera GT’s. I left the lights in, because I like lights! It handled great but lacked speed on straights. Decided to pull lights and board on 1 of the cars and it was .2+ sec quicker. Little more weight tuning gained almost another .1 sec. This was at 11 volts which is what our IHSR club runs at. Do the board and lights steal that much? Pulled lights from other one with same results. Guess I don’t like lights that much!

      Harry

      Comment


      • Aptosc6
        Aptosc6 commented
        Editing a comment
        Shocking that the lights steal that much power and add high CG weight. Thanks for sharing your finding.

      • Mitch58
        Mitch58 commented
        Editing a comment
        My parents bought me a Strombecker set in 1969, the two cars had lights. In the little handbook that came with the track it said "to increase a cars performance cut the wires leading to the lights". Of course back then the lights were not LEDs and the power pack did not have many amps.
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