What color is this car? Jim Clark's '67 Ford Fairlane

[slothead]

I have an unpainted Professor Motor (Revell-Monogram) '67 Ford Fairlane body kit that I intend to use to make a replica of the car Jim Clark drove.





I searched the Tamiya paint pallet for a match but am stumped. What color is it? What paint would be a good match?

[4424ever]

I don’t see a match on the chart ether but strictly going by your photo I would say root beer 😐

[dinglebery]

Here's what Photoshop says...

[Rastas]

That looks like a factory colour, in Australia some of GTHO Falcons were painted that gold , bronze colour.

[Wobble]

From the Tamiya TS paints I would have thought TS33 dull red would be the closest. ts33 dull red - Google Search - and - Project Rust bucket - RCCrawler -(scroll down to post #5).

[Rastas]

I think it's copper bronze.

[mattb]

Have you searched for better/more pictures?

[Starfighter Ace]

It is a Ford color was called "Emberglow" PPG stock number 26610. Same color as the number 5 Ford Mk II at the 1966 Le Mans (also a Holman Moody prepared car) . Holman Moody was a supported Ford Factory team and they had to use Ford paint. Top was Wimbledon White. Model Car World stocks the color, 6634

. It's a common question I get because it is so unusual and the driver is famous.

[WB2]

Randy Ayers NASCAR Modeling Forum, a very very good source, also says Emberglow.

[BIG E]

And we have a winner!
Thanks for the answers, guys. Johnny Lightning/Auto World manufactures a '67 Fairlane body for the pancake motor style chassis (the screw on type) that can bee used to make the Mario Andretti's and (my favorite non American driver) Jim Clark's cars. The have marketed it in the as the Wimbledon white Fred Lorenzen #28... got a few of those already!
Good info can be found when dedicated hobbyists are involved!
Thanks again! -- Ernie :>)

[4424ever]

Well there you go HRW comes through again it never ceases to amaze me the amount of information members of this board have
I still say root beer 😎

[Model Murdering]

Sassafras ...

Ford can call it whatever they want, it's handful of toners and flake. Dave's "Root Beer Brown" definition is the generic term for that color at the time. I always liked RBB!

If you cant find the color in a bomb or a jar, as Star Fighter recommended, it's pretty simple to shoot with the air brush. You dont even have to pre-blend it. Just point and shoot.

The Riv below is shot first with a light silver base, then dark transparent red to establish an even primary color base. Bright (yellow) gold metallic is lightly dusted over the top of the flashed dark red. The gold coat should have definite separation between the flakes. If you cant see the individual flakes, you're too heavy.

Working with lacquer, you can re-coat as quickly as it flashes. Repeat this step until you approach the desired tone and depth. This can be steered/controlled: If you want it darker, finish on red; for lighter, finish on gold. The idea is to vary the flake depth and spacing, so's not to have it all on one plane. I blow any clear down right away, while still in between the "flash and set" window.

Disclaimer! Just go easy. Less is more with candy and metallics. No more than three light applications, or you'll flop over to the dark side and lose the depth; and the critical "on light" wiggle/sheen that a metallic is supposed to present.





Even without modern photography, we can see from the OP's photos above how it behaves on and off light. RBB can dance or be demure. Like any good metallic, a lot depends on how the light hits it; and the manner in which it was applied.

Good luck,

Bill

[waaytoomuchintothis]

That's the color of our Fairlane 500 that my father traded our best car for ('59 Pontiac Catalina for a Ford Fairlane). The color is Chestnut Brown Metallic. Root Beer is very close, if you use black primer. Red or white really changes it.

[slothead]

Thanks to everyone for feedback.

Root Beer got me thinking, but it seemed a little too dark so I searched for a Cream Soda color. No luck there and decided that would probably be too light. Going back to the Tamiya pallet I agreed Dull Red was worth considering. Then (thanks Starfighter Ace) I found Emberglow info but mostly for paint in a can or jar for airbrushing. More searching led me to 3601E Omaha Orange at Model Car World as an option as it was connected with Chrysler and Ford cars from the 60's.



But, I wasn't sure what they were selling for $6, a small bottle of paint or a small can of spray paint. If this is a Testors or Tamiya sized can of spray paint I'd be set.

Next I found Testors One Coat Lacquer Paint, 3 oz. Spray Can, Fiery Orange which could be an option because I can order online from multiple sources.

Then I remembered that Slot Car Fever where I get most of my decals from often provides body paint color info.



YourSprayPaints.com has RAL 3003 for $16.47 for 400 ml.

At this time I think Testors Fiery Orange is the best choice, not perfect but probably close enough considering my modeling skills are not great.

[Broman62]

It's white...TS7....................................... ................wait......I'm color blind Naw just joshing...TS33(dull red) would have been my guess...that's gonna be a looker SH

[slothead]

Another paint question - on this car the roof is white as is the unpainted body. Does it make sense to paint the roof or just leave it as is and mask the roof off while painting the rest of the car? Same question for a car that's blue and white starting with a white unpainted body (Revell-Monogram '65 Ford Galaxie).

Planning to use Testors Arctic Blue TES1209T for the sides

Also with another build that's red with a black hood, what's the recommended order for painting?

Planning to use Tamiya TS39 Mica Red for the body

My fourth and final planned build right now is Vic Parsons' Mercury Cyclone.

Planning to use Tamiya TS-58 Pearl Light Blue on the sides and a Petty light blue (Tamiya TS10 French Blue) on the hood, roof, and trunk

[4424ever]

In my opinion if there’s white on a car it should be painted
I’ve always been of the opinion that no matter how white the mould appears it’s off white
With two tone paint jobs always cover the lighter colour with the darker colour this prevents a bleed through from one to the other EXCEPT white
I would paint the whole car white and then tape off to do the main body colour