New to the forum and getting back into slots after 20 years. As a model car builder I love that the 1/32 has such high detail and that the material is the same as models(both resin and plastic). I dug through my model stash and found a couple leftover snap kits from when my kids tried models, and a couple kits that came in trades over the years. What I am looking for are user friendly adjustable chassis
kits that won't break the bank. Of the cars pictured, three are Monogram, and one each MPC and Tamiya. I am going to practice on the Corvette because I can't make it look worse what it already is.
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THE other Vancouver aka Vancouver Washington across the river from keep Portland weird....
Member NASTE (Northwest Association of Slot Track Enthusiasts)
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It depends a bit on what you want. Professor Motor has the PCS chassis which is fine for low power kit bashing. The Slot.it chassis are better but more complex and require pods for the running gear.
The brass mentioned by Matt will require cutting off the side pans to fit under those bodies but will help to lower the CG.
Lots of options though.Come Race at The Trace!
Timberline Trace International Raceway - SW of Mpls, MN
https://cults3d.com/en/users/chappyman662/creations
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Originally posted by Sam I Am View PostNew to the forum and getting back into slots after 20 years. As a model car builder I love that the 1/32 has such high detail and that the material is the same as models(both resin and plastic). I dug through my model stash and found a couple leftover snap kits from when my kids tried models, and a couple kits that came in trades over the years. What I am looking for are user friendly adjustable chassis kits that won't break the bank. Of the cars pictured, three are Monogram, and one each MPC and Tamiya. I am going to practice on the Corvette because I can't make it look worse what it already is.
Using a 3D printed adjustable chassis. Lots of guys make them.
Peter
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Last edited by Sam I Am; March 19, 2022, 03:49 PM.
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I just removed the body from the chassis of the Monogram Mustang GT-350 and found my suspicion to be correct. The Monogram model I have of a 2+2 fastback came from the same molds. Interesting to me was that the motor is mounted in the front of the car with a drive shaft going to the rear axle. I get why, it simulates the handling of the real thing, but if my faulty memory is correct, this is the first time seeing this setup in person.
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Some of the older Scalextric cars used this setup.
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I have the Revell-Monogram Mustang and also a bunch of the Greenwood Corvettes. As I see it they all have the motor in front with a drive shaft to the rear axle so they can have full interiors. R-M cars are known for being great looking models and having the motors up front helps with this.
If you race these cars against each other than you're all set though I'd recommend upgrading the rear tires to silicone or urethane and lowering the voltage. If you intend to race these R-M cars against others with the more typical sidewinder or anglewinder configurations you may need to add weight to the chassis to improve traction.
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