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Racer Sideways Millertime Mustangs

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  • 32lbking
    replied
    On the guide thickness, maybe try coating the sides of the guide with liquid super glue to make it thicker.
    I do this to Carrera 1/24 guide posts because most have some slop. Most times it ends up a little tight on the first try, so I hit it with a fine file a couple times until I get it to where it pivots well, but the slop is gone.
    Never needed to widen the guide, but I don't see why it wouldn't work.
    Randy

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  • raggededgeracecars
    replied
    That’s something I got to get to. My boss gave me a 3D printer a few months ago. Haven’t had time to even touch it

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  • chappyman66
    replied
    Lots of replacement guides out there....but I print my own. I will let others speak up.

    You might try gluing a thin strip of styrene on the side of flag to see if it improves things.

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  • raggededgeracecars
    replied
    Just checked. The racer sideways guide is .017” thinner than a stock scalextric guide. Any recommendations on a replacement guide?

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  • raggededgeracecars
    replied
    The pieces of track before the timing loop are good. Guide thickness maybe the issue. It the stock racer sideways guide. Ill have to check the thickness'

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  • Brumos RSR
    replied
    Just thought of this as I have the same track, if there is a bow in a track before the start finish line, some of my cars if going by too fast may lift the front and not register a time. If I slow down as I cross, it will register, no fun in that. Also Thunderslot and Scaleauto guides have trouble,registering on my particular track in general.

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  • slothead
    replied
    I'm thinking the same thing as chappyman66, that it's the thickness of the guide blade that my be the issue. Yes, the other factors being considered may be causing the guide to ride high in the slot so it sometimes isn't deep enough to trigger the gate. A combination of things (weight & front axle height) can help counter the rear magnet and traction from lifting the guide upward, but a thicker guide blade may help too and be an easy test. If you can wrap a small piece of tape around the front of the guide blade you might see a difference.

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  • chappyman66
    replied
    Hi Chris,
    The other things that comes to mind with a gate/switch is that the thickness of the guide may make a difference. Not sure if you are using the stock guide or an aftermarket version. Maybe the thicker blade would help. You might also try a little Rail Zip of something similar or the contacts just to make sure you always get a good connection.

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  • raggededgeracecars
    replied
    The sensor is a trip gate. It about 1/16 down the slot. When the guide rolls through the gate it pushes it in and pushes up against a metal rail that touches a second rail. When the 2 make contact it sends a signal to the computer. I have read that there was a know design issue where the gate drops lower in the track. The fix was to as a small washer to keep the gate from dropping any lower in the slot. I have done this and it still does it. I have a feeling that the rail may have a small bow in it that makes it not touch on occassion

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  • chappyman66
    replied
    Chris....
    On a short track these cars accelerate pretty fast. If your guide is bottoming on the track or your ride height is slightly nose up you are going to get front end lift....PG tires may make it more pronounced with better grip.

    If the guide is spaced right, raise the front axle to let the front end of the chassis drop as far as possible, then set the axle height.

    Not sure how deep the sensor is, and what sort of lighting might be influencing your lap counting.

    We run without magnets and as little weight as possible so in your situation you might need to move the magnet toward the front of the pod to keep everything down.
    Last edited by chappyman66; January 5, 2020, 11:32 AM.

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  • Brumos RSR
    commented on 's reply
    Let's us know if it works, there's a ton of better tuners here than me.

  • raggededgeracecars
    replied
    Awesome. Thank You Brumos RSR

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  • Brumos RSR
    replied
    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_5794.JPG Views:	0 Size:	360.8 KB ID:	15137 put about 3-4 grams of weight over the guide our under the front axle. Make sure your front ride height is just low enough but not to hit the bottom of the track. If you magnet racing leave the magnet in the current position and add a slot It 2.5gram tungsten weight in front of it on the pod. Loosen your pod screws in 1/4 turn increments to see if you find additional handling also.
    Last edited by Brumos RSR; January 4, 2020, 04:42 PM.

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  • raggededgeracecars
    replied
    The car came with the magnet in the middle of the car and the 0 block. That wasnt the optimal configuration. The 1.0 block seemed to be the gig with this car but I had moved the magnet back. I think I will try the magnet forward. I have Paul Gage tires on their way so I will try it all when they come and see what happens. Thought I'd ask to see if there was something better to do. We have 2 more of these cars coming so I wanted to get this figured out so we can go right into racing them. Thanks for the suggestions

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  • Wobble
    replied
    It seems like your front wheel/axle assembly maybe acting like a fulcrum which is lifting the guide due to the lower chassis under the rear axle, and add to that the acceleration trying to lift the guide as the magnet under the axle maybe providing another pivot point. Seems like a bit of weight up front or setting the front axle higher in the chassis might benefit or going back to the standard rear axle block and moving your magnet forward. You might find with better grip you don't need so much magnet sucking the rear of the car down.

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