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The Scratchbuilding Bug, has set in, with me ! I really enjoy doing it, and learning from it. I try to do my projects, so that they'll be legal, if I ever get the opportunity to run on a wood, Club track. But since all my running/racing, realistically, is on a home track, I will build some, my own experimental ways. As I live on a low-budget, fixed income, I can't allow my hobbies (I have another one), to get too deep into my pocket ! I have come up with a couple of ideas, to keep the slot car building, from messing up my budget. I like high-detail, hardbody cars, that can rival RTR cars. Ideally, need white kit bodies, or preferably a 1/32 model car kit body. Those model car kit bodies are somewhat few and far between, in 1/32 scale. I only intend to build a few, occasional projects this "shortcut" way, that I'm thinking up. Considering Resin, but two things I don't like : most of the prices, and all that extra work it takes, to make it look good ! My QUESTION : Can you experienced hobbyists, suggest how to make, clear, Lexan or PETG, bodies look at least passable ?? I won't be displaying these cars, alongside my regular slot car collection (which I'm pretty proud of). But I suspect some of them, can be made to look fairly decent, and not like cartoons ! Some good Tips, and some Photos, if possible, would be much appreciated. I also hear, that a clearcoat, floor gloss, or even "shoe-goo", will help keep the paint on these clear bodies (on the inside, of course). I'm investigating the clear-bodies idea, because there is great variety, and the cost is Really manageable !!
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Would you consider these "passable" ??
Cheers
Chris Walker
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Show off!!! Chris' work is about the best I've seen.Matt B
So. In
CrashersComment
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I remember those. I actually took notes about the technique you used from your excellent post about them.Comment
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Chris' work shows clear Lexan bodies can be made to look great, but it's not easily done. I used to build some cars using Parma parts and bodies and found the Lexan bodies challenging to paint on the inside and turn out as desired. The money saved by their cost may end up not being a bargain given the amount of time involved.
I'm retired too and understand having limited income. You might want to ask folks on HRW if they have spare bodies they'd be willing to sell at reasonable costs. What type of cars are you interested in?
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Thanks for your candor and understanding ! I am Interested, in a wide variety of the major racing series', cars. I don't think I'm skilled enough yet, to try to scratch build a sidewinder, so I'll get my F1, Le Mans Prototypes, Daytona Prototypes, from RTR manufacturer's such as Slot.It, Scalextric, Carrera, etc. I'll stick to scratch building Stock Cars, GT Cars, Touring Cars, that are suited to the inline motor layout. I'm gonna attempt a couple of Can Am cars, though : I may be able to modify a driver figure-tray, with enough room for an inline chassis layout. Maybe I WILL, ask around HRW, about some spare bodies, hobbyists would be willing to sell. P.S. : I WOULD, definitely, be interested in buying a RMS Resins CAMARO BODY (the Showdown car, which I call The Harry-Camaro) !! Would love to do a Trans Am fantasy car, with that body !Last edited by 6666hotrod; January 11, 2022, 03:01 AM.
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The two biggest thing in painting Lexan are:
1) use paint for Lexan since it "grabs" but flexes
2) the order of painting is a bit backwards.
By order I mean you mask your windows and stripes on the inside, paint the main color, then spray the stripe last without re-masking (usually). That may be altered based on the colors and transparency, but usually when you look at the inside of the body, you would see the yellow overlaying the purple, for example.
As long as you use paint for lexan, it won't crack and peel unless it's crashed hard. The detail parts are added later.
PETG and butyrate are chemically different, so those rules don't apply to those materials. But yes, it takes a good sharp mold to make a clear body that is reasonable looking. They do exist.Come Race at The Trace!
Timberline Trace International Raceway - SW of Mpls, MN
https://www.thingiverse.com/chappyman66/designsComment
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Okay, dumb question...
Couldn't you paint a Lexan body on the outside, like any injection-molded body? Does it have to be painted on the inside?
Yes, it would make the paint more vulnerable, but no more at risk than on an injection-molded body. And it may look more realistic.
As for making the paint 'grab', it would be possible to treat the outside of the Lexan prior to painting. Use something that would lightly etch the surface to help the paint bond. Wipe with acetone maybe?
I wonder if anyone has tried this. And if so, how it worked out. Good or bad.
A comment on Chris' work... The cars look so gorgeous that one completely overlooks the pretty obvious fasteners used to hold the body on. Not saying that is bad -- just interesting.Last edited by HO RacePro; January 11, 2022, 10:25 AM.Ed Bianchi
York Pennsylvania USAComment
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Hmm...acetone on lexan may not end well.
​​​​​​...best keying the outside just as you would the inside with a fine scuffing pad.
Also just to warn folks, some chemicals we put on our tyres will melt lexan, we learned that back in the lexan chassis days when carpet first started being used with uncoated foams. I'm talking 1/12 pan cars here. The chemicals actually melted the lexan chassis!Kevan - Isle of Man
Print It, Build It, Race It, Improve It, Repeat...
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I have a local racer that does all the painting by brush and cheap hobby paint. Cars come out great and no issue . Just make sure you use flat paint on the inside.THE other Vancouver aka Vancouver Washington across the river from keep Portland weird....
Member NASTE (Northwest Association of Slot Track Enthusiasts)Comment
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That's how I painted a lot of lexan bodies in the 60s. It was cheap, easy and held up well. Biggest issue with lexan was tearing around the mounting holes. I would add that it takes a great deal of effort and detailing to make a lexan body look like it isn't a lexan body.Last edited by Bal r 14; January 11, 2022, 05:14 PM.
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Ed,Originally posted by HO RacePro View Post
I have successfully painted the outside of my rc lexan bodies by :
1.Wash body completely with Dawn dish soap and let dry.
2. Give the body a light coat using Tamiya polycarbonate paint - should match or be close to color you are going to paint.
You can then use automotive lacquer primer and paint to finish. Your mileage may vary with the thinner lexan.
DaveComment
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Not a dumb question at all Ed,.....in fact, many clear plastic bodies were painted on the outside (mainly by the club guys, not the commercial track guys) as they did tend to look more realistic, but, did suffer from more scratches/scrapes.Originally posted by HO RacePro View Post
Cheers
Chris Walker
Here are a couple of mid 60's clear "Butyrate" bodies that I did many years ago (Lexan was still a few years away), painted on the outside.
FYI Butyrate needed to be painted with enamel only, and tended to split fairly easily, as well as "yellow" over time.
(You can see that the windscreens have "yellowed").......Lexan and PETG do not do this.
Last edited by chrisguyw; January 13, 2022, 09:48 AM.Comment
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