Scalextric L88 Corvette handling, any tips?

[Michael Squier]

Has anyone had luck getting these front motored chassis to handle well? So far I have PG tires on mine and a slotting plus guide replacing the original. A little weight under and in front of the rear axel. I think I need a bit more under the cockpit area, but don’t have any thin enough yet.
What have any of you done to these, besides replacing the chassis with a slot it, lol.

[chrisguyw]

All the regular stuff,.....bushings, axles, gears, wheels, gluing, truing etc. etc.

If you do not want to spend much, there are couple of inexpensive things that are very much worth doing...........1/ Removing the stock metal drive spring, and, replacing it with a piece of clear vinyl speaker wire insulation, will significantly reduce vibrations and noise, and will improve handling. 2/ replacing the rear nylon motor shaft bushing with a 2mm id. bore oilite will also make a difference.

Cheers
Chris Walker

[Michael Squier]

I forgot to mention I did replace the spring with some speaker wire tubing, per your suggestion a while back. I’m just wondering if more blast would help or hurt?

[docdoom]

Remove the drive line spring and replace spring with brass tube. Glue in the drive and axile bushings.. there a way to take the play out of the axile bushing but if done wrong you are screwed. You can sand the bottom of the interior and edge of the chassis to get more float and inlarge the mount holes slightly for some more float

[Michael Squier]

I replaced the spring with a plastic tube per Chris suggestion a while back. As for the interior, I had sanded the bottom in an attempt for some float and glued it to the body, it was screwed to the chassis. Yesterday I cleaned up some glue on the chassis and screwed the interior back on the chassis. It actually feels looser away from the body, and my thinking is it’s less weight on the body to float around? Any thoughts on that?

[Michael Squier]

I forgot to say it’s non magnetic.

[dungeonracer]

Yesterday I cleaned up some glue on the chassis and screwed the interior back on the chassis. It actually feels looser away from the body, and my thinking is it’s less weight on the body to float around?

That's how I think too. Get as much weight off the body as you can. Actually, I don't even use the screws to hold the interior. Once the body's on, the interior isn't going anywhere.
With the motor being in the front, no need to add weight there.
Are you still running the stock tires on the back? If so, any trick for rubber tires should be helpful (oiling etc) until they harden up.

[Michael Squier]

I put some PG urethane’s on it, big difference over the stock. Now to keep tinkering and testing. I think I had some of the weight back too far, under the axel. Once it broke loose it just swings way out. I need some thinner lead so I can put it under the seat area. Trail and error
As for the interior, the screws were loose so I tightened them, it hit something and bound up a bit so I put some silicone washers in between now it doesn’t rub and has a bit of wiggle to it. It hit because I had sanded the bottom a bunch.

[Wobble]

I've done very little to mine, de-wobbled the guide, thinner braid, trued front tyres, brass driveshaft bush, a magnet sized piece of lead in rear magnet pocket and glued and trued Supergrips, no body float and it goes like a cut cat on routed MDF and was on the pointy end of the podium the other night. One weird thing I did find on this car was splined axle ends rather than the normal knurled axle ends and this is the 3rd Scaley car I've found these on.

[Wobble]

Supergrips are rubber by NSR. We race with rubber and urethane whatever takes your fancy.

[Michael Squier]

Lol, I should have known that. NSR supergrips. What size dud you use?

[Wobble]

If I recall correctly and sometimes I don't, Supergrips for P68. I used a 12x1mm o-ring super-glued on the hub 1st to bring the centre ridge up to approx 5mm wide and then added the tyre.