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  • A Painting Question.

    I have a rather odd question : Wondering if anyone would know how Harry Wise paints his 1/24 and 1/32 Builds ! I re-watched one of his Land Barge vids recently, and he stated that the older car he was featuring, was his first air-brush painted car. I am considering brush painting my next project, as an experiment. Wondering how the resin bodied Showdown car was painted, : spray can, air brush, or brush painted ? His BrassAm's look great, as well as his other Builds. Wondering about painting the hard body model kit bodies. Trying to learn some pros and cons, about spray can painting, air brush painting, and especially, how well a carefully painted brush-painting job can or can't be.

  • #2
    Click image for larger version

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ID:	136402 For the cars I have built at HRW HQ (both Styrene and Resin) , I have sprayed with Duplicolor Lacquer and Tamiya Lacquer with great results. I built a car for Harry that was brush painted with Createx Acrylic. Results are good if you thin it some, and do several thin even coatsClick image for larger version

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    Brian Mc
    Minnecrapulous, Mn

    ”Machinist: One who does precision guesswork based on unreliable data from those of questionable knowledge.”

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    • #3
      This one was brush painted wit Testors enamels….again slightly thinned. 70/30 with 6-8 thin coats with a decent brush-$8.00 from Hobby Lobby Click image for larger version

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      Brian Mc
      Minnecrapulous, Mn

      ”Machinist: One who does precision guesswork based on unreliable data from those of questionable knowledge.”

      Comment


      • #4
        There's a Finish Scale: Best finish is airbrush, Good finish is spray can, and Decent finish is paint brush. This is my opinion. I would only paint small detail parts by brush, like parts that go under the glass, or mirrors, wipers and antenna.

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        • #5
          Excellent responses : much appreciated !!

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          • #6
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ID:	136433 these were all done with a rattle can.

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            • #7
              I agree with Dingleberry….I’ve just started with the air brush. If you go on YouTube, there’s a guy going by “Barbetos Rex”. He’s put out great videos on how to mix reduce and spay all different paint types and brands. His videos are about an hour each, but we’ll worth the time. Taken his advice, and none of it has steered me wrong.
              Brian Mc
              Minnecrapulous, Mn

              ”Machinist: One who does precision guesswork based on unreliable data from those of questionable knowledge.”

              Comment


              • dinglebery
                dinglebery commented
                Editing a comment
                I watched hours of his videos before buying an airbrush/paint booth/compressor setup. I then bought the PS290 based on his review - he's unfiltered and unbiased - just how it should be reviewing products! Love that guy!

            • #8
              Using an air brush will allow you to mix your own colors and have much better control over the spray, however you will get more toxic fumes when you use an air brush. You should build or buy a proper spray booth if you expect to use an air brush.

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              • Loan Shark
                Loan Shark commented
                Editing a comment
                Hey Rich. I'm new to painting cars. Why are there more fumes?

            • #9
              The paint also needs to be diluted when you use an air brush, so there will be more solvent fumes. The air brush will need to be flushed out with a solvent when you change colors and when the job is finished. All of this is presuming that you will be using a solvent based paint. Water based paints do not make toxic fumes. The solid part of a water based paint will make dust that you should avoid breathing.

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              • #10
                Not all paint needs to be thinned or diluted. Read the labels or the manufacturers recommendations before painting. Createx paint for instance needs to be thinned with thinner before spraying. Alclad does not. Vellejo does not.

                Painting with an airbrush does not "create" toxic fumes no more than spraying a rattle can does. Overspray is the correct term I think Rich was referring to. And you get much more overspray from a rattle can.

                Watch BarbatosRex on youtube. you'll learn all there is to know.

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                • #11
                  Spray cans put most of the "toxic fumes" in the air compared to an airbrush. It's like putting out a lit match with a fire hose doing slot cars. Spray cans are meant for larger surfaces, most of the paint is wasted in overspray.
                  I decant the spray paint and the shoot it with an airbrush. You use way less paint, it does a way better job, and the fumes are nothing compared to a rattle can.
                  Allan

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                  • dinglebery
                    dinglebery commented
                    Editing a comment
                    Can you share with us your method of decanting a spray can? I think it'd be a valuable method for a lot of people willing to try it.

                • #12
                  Brush painting a body is a real challenge. It takes skill to paint with a brush. The air brush is probably the best option for custom work of any kind and custom colors. Spray cans are easy require no cleaning when you are done except to wipe the nozzle or turn up side down and spray till all paint is expelled. A little patience and practice and spray cans will give you fine results and one can of model paint will do 4-5 bodies.

                  If you have a warm climate you can do it outside and avoid fumes, but you need to be sheltered from wind or you will waste paint and get a lot of dust in your finish. If painting outside is not an option, a garage is ok if getting overspray on stuff is not a problem. You can just set a small fan behind your work and it will pull spray and fumes away from you. It is really simple to build a spray booth pretty cheap. We have a thread a few days old showing a couple that have been built for under$20.

                  I can't speak to airbrush painting , the air brush guys have already posted good info. . I use model car spray paint, Tamiya and Testors, except for the colors, red, black and white, they are Rustoleum auto lacquer. The model paints are a finer spray than regular paint and do make it a little easier by putting out a smaller amount of paint and making it easier to control. They are worth the cost. There are several types of spray can paints and I stick to lacquer for everything. Mixing different paints creates many problems that take more work to correct. If you have an unpainted body, using lacquer means no problems with any mixing of colors or paint thickness. You get some enamel in there somewhere and you'll be sorry. I keep no enamel in my box of body spray paint. Using lacquer means you have to be sure your body has no old enamel paint on it.

                  You can't do some of the fine fading and fogging of different colors with spray cans. You can mask and do multi colors but edges will be sharply defined and not faded from one color to another. The airbrush is a better choice for finer custom work., Lacquer spray cans do let you paint a body with 2-4 coats in less than an hour and you have no clean up and the body will dry and ready to work with in an hour or two.
                  Matt B
                  So. In
                  Crashers

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