Need Help with strange issue !

[6666hotrod Slot Car Enthusiast Find all posts View Profile Close 6666hotrod]

My first scratch build was basically Harry's Showdown 1/32 Chassis. Had a couple of problems
, but it ended up turning out well, especially for my first try. Had some learning issues with the second Build, but ended up happy with it, as well.
My third Build is giving me a strange problem, right outta the gate : I can't get the 3/32 axle to go into the 3/32 bushings I bought ! I checked my Order (and even my order previous to that) from Slot Car Corner, and all looked correct. I am obviously missing something. What Size Bushings (inside diameter) Do 3/32 Axles Fit Into, since I figure 3/32 axle can't be pushed into same size hole in a bushing. Seems the hole in the bushing should be slightly larger than the 3/32 ?? I also know, the outside diameter of the bushing must be 3/16, in order to fit inside the 7/32 round brass tube ! I don't know if maybe I was sent the wrong size axles, or what. Can't quite understand, why things fit fine, on my first two Builds, and I'm having this problem, this time. Advise, please !!
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[Brumos RSR HRW Forum Veteran Find all posts View Profile Close Brumos RSR]

NSR axles should fix it. Order the F1 axles 60mm NSR4866 or NSR4802 55mm. I need help as I should not know these #s in my head.

[4424ever HRW Forum Veteran Find all posts View Profile Close 4424ever]

Try deburring the axle some times the cut on the end of the axle is sharp enough to prevent it from sliding through the bushing

[mattb HRW Forum Veteran Find all posts View Profile Close mattb]

Sometimes the end of the axle needs a slight turn against a grinding wheel to bevel it a little and take off any burr. A lot of the old stuff I use has axles, bushings and crown gears that won't fit together. I have a tapered 1/8 inch file I use when needed.

[HO RacePro HRW Forum Veteran Find all posts View Profile Close HO RacePro]

If you are going to be scratch-building you should really invest in some decent measuring tools. The good news is you can buy some very good instruments these days for relatively reasonable prices. I can recommend Fowler brand instruments as being really good quality at decent prices.

At the very least you need to buy a dial caliper. A mechanical dial caliper will serve you very well. An electronic caliper can be even better because they typically measure both English and Metric.

https://www.amazon.com/Fowler-Nsk-72-008-007-Dial-Caliper/dp/B005UZ2S0A/ref=sr_1_1_mod_primary_new?keywords=fowler+dial+ca liper&qid=1638643893&sbo=RZvfv%2F%2FHxDF%2BO5021pA nSA%3D%3D&sr=8-1

https://www.amazon.com/Fowler-54-101-150-2-Xtra-Value-Electronic-Resolution/dp/B0015S6GMM/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=fowler%2Belectronic%2Bcaliper& qid=1638644048&sr=8-3&th=1

A caliper will measure the diameter of shafts accurately, but aren't all that good at measuring the diameter of small holes. For that a set of pin gauges are a good investment. You can buy a set of pin gauges that increase in diameter by one thousandth of an inch. You just try fitting different pin gauges in a hole until you find the largest one that will fit.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/29347181174...QAAOSwvxBeQ1Pl

And if you want to get professional machine shop serious you'll swallow hard and pony up for a micrometer. You can find a decent mike for less than US$100. The name-brands like Mitutoyo and Starrett are going to cost you more.

https://www.amazon.com/Fowler-Xtra-V...645917&sr=8-16

https://www.mcmaster.com/2097A12/

Good instruments, stored properly and used with care, can be a lifetime investment.

Ed Bianchi

PS - I have no commercial interest in Fowler brand instruments. I do own several of them -- including a 24 inch dial caliper -- and have been very pleased with both their price and quality.

[Aptosc6]

I have a 50+ year old Fowler micrometer that is still serving me well.

[dinglebery HRW Forum Veteran Find all posts View Profile Close dinglebery]

And if we're talking about tools... a solid, Flat, base is a must. Calibrated surface plates are expensive (there's a link to an inexpensive one), but a setup block works also.

[MnFordGuy HRW Forum Veteran Find all posts View Profile Close MnFordGuy]

For what it’s worth…..What I have used is a .0938 reamer. McMaster Carr has them for just under $20…. This is also what I use to open up CB wheels on occasion. It’ll last quite a long time as well if you get the cobalt grade.

[HO RacePro]

McMaster-Carr is my industrial toy store. At last count they had something north of half-a-million items, mostly in stock! If you've never heard of them go to mcmaster.com and oogle their goodies. Effing amazing! Not always cheap, but if it exists on planet Earth they likely have it. Other good sources are grainger.com and MSCdirect.com.

Ed Bianchi

[Aptosc6 HRW Podium Poster Find all posts View Profile Close Aptosc6]

Sometimes you get burrs from the bushing castings. Take an xacto blade lightly to the inside of both sides of the bushing. If it's still tight carefully burnish with 600 grit sandpaper. Clean after with alcohol.

[Brumos RSR HRW Forum Veteran Find all posts View Profile Close Brumos RSR]

I’m not using the right tools….I been just eye balling stuff and using fingers to measure. Time to sell a few more cars for tools

[Fathead59 HRW Forum Veteran Find all posts View Profile Close Fathead59]

I had some brass rod that I used for axels and used emory cloth and W-D 40 , put the axle in a drill or dermel and while the axel was spinning I run the emory cloth up and down it until it fit . Just a thought