On an s can motor what’s the advantage or difference using the can end to drive or the plastic end to drive from? I’ve seen it both ways.
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Plastic end or can end driven, what’s the advantage? If any.
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Can end has to be more rigid so must be favourite, endbell drive must have been invented by someone having a laughKevan - Isle of Man
Life is like a box of Slot cars...🚓🚗🚚🚜
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Originally posted by Michael Squier View PostOn an s can motor what’s the advantage or difference using the can end to drive or the plastic end to drive from? I’ve seen it both ways.
If you are playing with weight distribution, the can end of a motor is slightly heavier than the endbell end, as the magnets are situated towards the end of the can, so, can end vs. endbell drive can offer a slightly different weight distribution.
As far as History goes,......at the peak of the slotcar craze (mid to late 60's) virtually all slotcar motors were secured by screws through the motor bracket and into the plastic endbell..........this changed in 1968(ish) when motors became stronger, and the practice of soldering the motor to the motor bracket became the norm.
In the more modern world of plastic slot cars, Ninco, Fly, Scalextric. Slot-it etc. have all employed endbell drive configurations,..so,.....again,...if you glue/tape/screw your motor into position, the enbell vs. can orientation is of minor importance,......................I would not suggest you disregard any endbell drive chassis that you have.
Cheers
Chris Walker
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Like Chris said....for home motors, doesn't matter.
In the old days, some of the early endbells were a poor grade of plastic and rewound motors ran hotter, melting the endbell. That's part of what lead to can drive, but being able to stiffen the chassis by soldering the motor in was a major improvement.Come Race at The Trace!
Timberline Trace International Raceway - SW of Mpls, MN
https://cults3d.com/en/users/chappyman662/creations
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There is a self-centering bearing in the endbell, sometimes those are loose in the socket, so it is best to check for that problem. I have glued loose bearings in place with epoxy. The motors used in 1/24th commercial track cars are all can end drive. Often oilite bearings will need to be replaced. I have never had to replace the bearing in a 1/32nd car.
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I suspect the weight distribution is the most important consequence of how you orient the motor, endbell versus can. My preference is for more weight on the rear wheels, so I guess I'd favor can drive.
Shorter wires help too. More about reduced weight than electrical resistance. Not as big a factor in 1/32nd as HO. In HO I've found it matters. I tie down the wires on my Rattler cars for a lower center of gravity. It makes a measurable difference.
Something I believe is overlooked are the vibrations set up by the meshing of the gear teeth. My work with direct drive cars has made me aware of it. Slotcar gear tooth forms are often primitive, and result in the drivetrain getting whacked thousands of times per second. Shakes the whole car. Would the plastic of the endbell absorb some of that? And would that help? Or would the higher rigidity of the can be better?
Actually better gears would be better. Spiral bevel gears anyone?
So much fun spinning theories! Too bad there's so little clean data to evaluate them.
Ed BianchiEd Bianchi
York Pennsylvania USA
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