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  • Weak NSR chassis

    I have quite a few NSR cars and I have observed that on 3 of them the chassis is too weak to use silicone tires. On these cars, it's chatters like crazy with silicone tires, like a car with bad leaf springs. On one of the cars, it's even too weak to support the car enough to keep the tires from hitting the body. In the enclosed image, these two black legs are all that supports the rear of the pod and the part of the chassis that attaches to the body. On the cars I mentioned, they are very weak and bend easily. On the car shown in the image, I superglued the pod to the rear of the chassis. That worked, but it isn't ideal. I'd like a solution that still gives some flex. Has anyone else run into this. It doesn't seem to be an issue with most NSR cars, just these three.
    Attached Files

  • #2
    A number of things you could try.........................

    1/ Use some styrene, brass strip, piano wire etc. glued to the chassis plate to stiffen both the torsional and longitudinal flex of the chassis plate.

    2/ Buy one of the stiffer variations of the NSR Porsche chassis plate

    3/ Try using a FC-130 motor in your existing motor pod

    4/ Use a Sloting Plus axle tube/bushings to stiffen the rear end of the NSR motor pod.

    Cheers
    Chris Walker

    SlotingPlus rear axle tube installed in NSR Porsche 997 chassis.......the chassis plate is also the NSR "stiff" version.

    Click image for larger version  Name:	DSCN4748.jpg Views:	0 Size:	235.4 KB ID:	124631
    Last edited by chrisguyw; October 5, 2021, 05:40 PM.

    Comment


    • chrisguyw
      chrisguyw commented
      Editing a comment
      Small od. bore bushings (available from ScaleRacing and JK) eliminate most of the fore/aft movement of the front axle. This fore /aft movement results in a "steering" effect of the front tires, which is far from ideal. The bushings do move up and down in the front axle uprights, but the fore/aft movement is heavily restricted. The grub screws position the bushings, and very little vertical adjustment is lost.

    • Bal r 14
      Bal r 14 commented
      Editing a comment
      Thank you, Chris. One more question... why do your rear tires look polished?

    • chrisguyw
      chrisguyw commented
      Editing a comment
      Because they are !!

  • #3
    And if you do all of those fantastic suggestions you'll be mostly there as far as chassis work.

    Don't forget these are designed to be used with magnetic effect motors on plastic tracks.
    Print It, Build It, Race It, Improve It, Repeat...

    Comment


    • #4
      You said you glued the pod to the chassis why didn't you just tighten the screws for the pod? NSR makes chassis that are stiffer. We are about to run the NSR nationals this weekend. The race will be run on Quick Slicks silicone tires. Make sure your bushing are not loose in the pod. In the nationals you are not allowed to use any kind of chassis stuffing. If all goes as planned we will be live streaming the race so you will be able to watch them and see how they run.
      Mike
      Clover Leaf Racing 7746 Clyde Road Fenton MI 48430 U.S.A. 313-473-SLOT
      web site: https://cloverleafracing.com Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/cloverleafracing
      YouTube Chanel: http://www.youtube.com/user/CLR132slots?feature=watch

      Comment


      • SlotCat
        SlotCat commented
        Editing a comment
        Great suggestions and check that the rear axle bushings are not worn out allowing excess axle slop.

      • Bal r 14
        Bal r 14 commented
        Editing a comment
        No offense, but I have seen the track the NSR nationals run on. It's like a super speedway. I doubt I would have the same problem on that track. There aren't a lot of speed variations or tight corners.

    • #5
      The pod is fine, the bearings are fine (almost new). The chassis has so much flex it could not support the weight of the car causing, the tires to hit the top of the wheel openings. I glued the chassis to the pod to give the chassis the strength of the pod. It is only glued at the rear, the pod can still flex sideways. It worked. However, a little more flex would be desirable on the other two cars, so I made a temporary fix by taping the chassis to the pod. It worked, no more chatter. I think I will go shopping for some stiffer chassis. This is definitely something I'll remember. Tuning for silicone has it's own unique challenges. All of the tips and info I have been given will be put to use, maybe not in these cars, but there will be others.
      Last edited by Bal r 14; October 5, 2021, 11:43 PM.

      Comment


      • #6
        Lots of meters of sticky tape are used on lots of slot cars around the world and it works well so might save you some coin on a stiffer chassis.

        Comment


        • Fathead59
          Fathead59 commented
          Editing a comment
          What type of tape are you talking about , any type , reinforced packing tape , duct tape , or should you just experiment until you find which one works the best ?

        • Bal r 14
          Bal r 14 commented
          Editing a comment
          I use reinforced packing tape and duct tape. The packing tape is stiffer. Both hold well.

      • #7
        From the photo of the car, the problem you have looks like the tyres are to wide for the car, they're sticking out past the wheel arches and that's why you're having problems with chattering.

        Click image for larger version

Name:	Screenshot_20211006-124030.png
Views:	105
Size:	661.3 KB
ID:	124835
        Print It, Build It, Race It, Improve It, Repeat...

        Comment


        • Bal r 14
          Bal r 14 commented
          Editing a comment
          The picture was taken after I glued the chassis to the pod and the wheels were intentionally moved out to better view the black plastic legs. Plus, I was experimenting with different tires. I think it would have been smarter to take the wheels off for the picture.

      • #8
        I've had the same issue with some of the NSR cars and as odd as it may sound, went with the black motor pod which has more flex and solved the issue. The other like mentioned above is the rear tire width.
        Brad
        Ayton, ON Canada

        Comment


        • #9
          It looks like you may have changed the motor. If this is one of the older pods that had a hole, as opposed to a slot, for the can end of the motor to fit into, you might check for cracks in the pod. I had two of the red pods crack when inserting different motors. There wasn’t enough flex to snap the motor in place. One of the cars came out of the box with a cracked pod.
          If so, cut and file a groove for the bushing to slide through. Look at Chris’s photo and you can see the groove between the motor screws.

          Comment


          • Kevan
            Kevan commented
            Editing a comment
            It looks like a King motor to me so would be standard.

          • Bal r 14
            Bal r 14 commented
            Editing a comment
            Stock motor. Wrapper started to peel away from opening, so I tore it off. I think I bought some Quick Slicks that should have had more sidewall, so I had almost no ground clearance. Still learning!
            I wouldn't think this is an older pod as this is the 997 Pink Pig, which wasn't released very long ago.
            Last edited by Bal r 14; October 6, 2021, 09:26 AM.
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