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NSR F1 86/89 on wood

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  • NSR F1 86/89 on wood

    We have some interest in running these on our wood oval. Has anyone tried them on wood tracks?
    https://www.nsrslot.it/assets/models...1/formula.html



    Steve

    Smith Scale Speedway - 1/32 Oval Racing

  • #2
    I run a box stock one on a smallish wood track. I thought it was a bit overpowered but changed my driving style.
    I thought it would be nice if IndyCals brought out Indy car livery decals for these, similar to what other decal manufacturers did with pseudo F1 liveries.

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    • #3
      Our 3 lane track is routed wood. The rear tyres are ok but not a patch on Ultragrips. I tried the original kit, changed gearing, tried a Shark 28 and then left it for weeks on end in bits. I put the original motor back in with 10/26 gearing (I couldn't find the original gears, must have used them), 12mm Ultragrips, some tungsten rod ballast and now it flies round quicker than a well sorted Mosler.
      Kevan - Isle of Man
      Print It, Build It, Race It, Improve It, Repeat...

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      • #4
        I run mine on wood and usually in the top two for the track record. My track power is at 10.5 volts and have used stock NSR rubber and XPG urethanes. The rubber has been faster.
        Brad
        Ayton, ON Canada

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        • #5
          We run these here stock on a 70 foot 4 lane wood track (look for videos from Norcal Slot Cars). Everything as came from NSR except some lead ballast, glue and true tires and change out for a wood guide. We all love these cars and I usually run top 3. The Leyton House car is mine.

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          • #6
            I just got an NSR F1 car and put Quick Slicks on it. All of my cars are on Quick Slicks, my 61' 3 lane MDF track has a number of tight corners and the surface is very smooth. It's not an easy track to drive. On/off the trigger type racers will lose. Right now, the NSR anglewinders with the 350gr long can motors are my fastest cars. Current track record at 10v is 6.215 seconds. This basically stock, no mileage NSR F1 is about .3 seconds slower. It should be right up there with the fastest with some tuning and break-in. The short tail gives it some advantage on some turns, but the height of the wing makes it a bit top heavy on those same turns. So, I guess we will see.

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            • #7
              Brought one to evaluate for our club, s tracks. Wood tracks from 45 to 66 ft.
              Bit if lead and started at 12 v, very hard to drive,reduced voltage and the times were much better. Fastest time on the 66 ft track was at 10.2 volts. Apart from the weight, and some guide spacers the car was standard.
              Times we’re about 2 tenths slower than the best Mosler.
              We now have 14 on order for a new series.

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              • #8
                I've got one and just trued up the tires that came on it. It runs away from every other car on the track. I expect to see several more of them next time around. Click image for larger version

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                • #9
                  I have done a few NSR F1 car for folks, with the set-up being quite different for wood and plastic tracks.

                  For plastic tracks, the magnetic downforce provided by the longcan motor (20/30 gms.) more than offsets the disadvantage of the longcan weighting 12gms. more than a FC-130 motor, so for plastic tracks, the longcan stays.

                  For wood tracks, the lighter (12gm. lighter) FC-130 motor, has a considerable handling advantage over the longcan, and the folks I have sent cars to set up this way have been very happy...........a few of the better known tuners on the forums (this one included) have also all found significant improvements in using an FC-130 for these cars on wood tracks.

                  This one has been set-up/tested for wood tracks, (tested on my wood track) and is noticeably quicker (on wood trcks) than the cars I have set-up for folks with plastic tracks (longcan motor).

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                  Although Indycals do not do any decals specifically sized for the NSR cars, a lot of their Indycar sheets could certainly be made to fit.

                  I built this one for a guy who wanted one done in "Rosbergs" Portugal 1986 colours, and the excellent Atalaya decals, and equally excellent Interlagos miniatures "Rosberg" helmet was used.

                  Several bodywork modifications were required......closing in the sidepod vents, creating vents on the top of the sidepods, different mirrors etc.

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                  Last edited by chrisguyw; September 23, 2021, 10:20 AM.

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                  • Mitch58
                    Mitch58 commented
                    Editing a comment
                    I did the same motor swap with mine. I like the mid range throttle response these motors have.

                  • Zcarfan
                    Zcarfan commented
                    Editing a comment
                    Beautiful work, love that car!

                • #10
                  I bought the NSR F1 for the NSR Nationals in a couple of weeks at Cloverleaf Racing in Michigan. I've been testing and tuning on it and it's the fastest car I have on my track. I just hope it's that fast on the track in Michigan.
                  Butch Dunaway
                  Oxford, Ohio

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                  • #11
                    Here's an update: after break-in, tuning and a number of laps, the NSR F1 now holds my track record for 10v setting at 6.142. It's balance is much better than the sidewinders and angle winders. The wing turned out to be a non-issue.

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                    • Kevan
                      Kevan commented
                      Editing a comment
                      F1's own our clubs track record, it should do as they are much wider, have wider tyres topped with a miniscule bodyshell...and F1's are inline. No doubt a SW F1 would be even better.

                    • slothead
                      slothead commented
                      Editing a comment
                      Doesn't look like a SW or AW setup would fit under a realistically sized F1 body. From the comments posted so far the inline setup seems to be working just fine.

                  • #12
                    We run them basically stock, we obviously change the tires to Quick Slicks NR001 and the guide flag to a NSR wood guide and change the crown gear to the brass version. They are quick and run well. We will be running them at the NSR nationals in the a couple weeks.
                    Mike
                    Clover Leaf Racing 7746 Clyde Road Fenton MI 48430 U.S.A. 313-473-SLOT
                    web site: https://cloverleafracing.com Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/cloverleafracing
                    YouTube Chanel: http://www.youtube.com/user/CLR132slots?feature=watch

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                    • Bal r 14
                      Bal r 14 commented
                      Editing a comment
                      To me, the stock crown gear feels like it doesn't turn as freely as it should.

                    • Mikeinclover
                      Mikeinclover commented
                      Editing a comment
                      Make sure you lube it up with grease.

                  • #13
                    Mike, why the brass version on the crown gear?
                    Butch Dunaway
                    Oxford, Ohio

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                    • Mikeinclover
                      Mikeinclover commented
                      Editing a comment
                      Because the aluminum one seems to be stripping out.

                    • Pappy
                      Pappy commented
                      Editing a comment
                      Since Corey said they are better I'll switch to the brass version. : )
                      Please put one aside along with my deep wood guide. Thank you.

                  • #14
                    Originally posted by Pappy View Post
                    Mike, why the brass version on the crown gear?
                    Sounds like there have been some issues with the aluminum hub seizing against the motor shaft. Highly likely due to insufficient lubricant applied in that area. However, since this is an extended race I decided not to take the risk and swapped to bronze as well.

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                    • #15
                      Originally posted by cj74 View Post

                      Sounds like there have been some issues with the aluminum hub seizing against the motor shaft. Highly likely due to insufficient lubricant applied in that area. However, since this is an extended race I decided not to take the risk and swapped to bronze as well.
                      I cut the excess motor shaft and put a brass spacer up against the crown gear, I don't like relying on the groove which leaves a trail of brass dust all round the track covering your tyres and reducing grip...a pet hate that others on track before me are so lax in this respect.
                      Kevan - Isle of Man
                      Print It, Build It, Race It, Improve It, Repeat...

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