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I am finally happy with this car.

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  • I am finally happy with this car.

    I bought this Pioneer about 6 months back with the idea of starting to build it up using the current Trans Am proxy rules here on the forum. I bought a 3d chassis and pod, and took some time to put it all together. I was extremely underwhelmed by the performance, it was barely faster than my well tuned stock chassis car I use for our local TA class. The chassis was just too wide in the back and I couldn't get the car to handle well without rubbing either on the inside or the outside of the tire in the back. I am well aware that other have had good luck with this, I let the project sit for a while.

    Then I decided to build a Brass chassis with Slot.it Pod. This was only my second attempt at incorporating a pod on a brass chassis. It certainly makes the build go faster. This version of the car was much better, but still lackluster on lap times.

    The last couple days I really sat down and tried to get it working well. Changed the front axle height slightly and ground the body for sufficient clearance in the front with the body screws loosened up. Installed silicone washers on the pod, and put in a Shark 20k.

    It is very nice to drive on my track now, I am hoping it translates to good laps on some others as well! I sure like the way it looks, and that is probably one of the only reasons it isn't still just sitting on the shelf. That and it is now my most expensive 1/32 car!

    Click image for larger version

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    Click image for larger version

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    Zack


  • #2
    Nicely done Zack. I'm kind of partial to these hybrid chassis myself. I'm currently trying to incorporate a HRS2 guide and axle holder into my 3rd version. I think the problem with the 3D chassis is that it was designed for the Scaley Camaro, which has a significant flare in the rear wheel archs compared to any other Camaro. (any scale)


    Randy
    Last edited by Dodgefarmer; December 5, 2019, 11:06 AM.

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    • #3
      You need to build a # 70 yellow Mustang to be fast.

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      • #4
        Hi Zack, ...I copied this over from the old forum.........this modification will work on any motor pod, and will save 50thou+ on either side.


        Hi Folks, I recently entered a proxy for Austin Healey "Sprites" (very narrow), and the rules stipulated that the tires had to be fully enclosed (could not be seen from above). I was planning on building a Hybrid chassis, a Slot-it inline center section, with a brass/wire perimeter, and when I did the math, it became apparent that even with the 7mm rear tires/wheels, the bloody thing was just too wide.........at this stage I was too lazy to scratchbuild a narrower back end,.....so,....a few simple mods were made to the pod.

        1/ I removed the "fingers" that hold the typical Slot-it spherical bushings.
        2/ Carefully reamed the holes to 3/16" (the OD. of my single flanged oilites)
        3/ Installed (glued) the oilites with the flanges on the inside of the pod uprights......I have installed lots of bushings with the flanges on the outside,....just depends on how narrow you need to go

        This narrowed the rear end by a good 1/4" inch, and I was good to go. Additionally, the glued in oilites are more precise than standard (non glued) spherical bushings.

        Below is a pic of standard pod compared to a modified one.

        Image resized to 84% of its original size [1069 x 800]


        I am also not concerned that the flanges are on the inside (some may think that this could lead to a punched through bushing in the event of a crash), as on all inlines I place my spacers between the gear and the inside of the rear uprights. The spacers center the gear so it does not run on the motor shaft (reducing friction), and, most importantly (on an inline) ensures that my gear mesh is consistent, and bulletproof. It is pain, and may require several widths of spacers, but, it is well worth the effort.......and, I believe critical for the perils of proxy racing. Most folks use spacers between the outside of the pod and the inside of the wheel, and while this is certainly fine, you are counting on the wheels not moving laterally on the axle (this invariably happens.....a shot on the outside of the wheel can move the wheel "in" binding the rear end,.......or,....normal running will invariably move the wheels out a tad, which also affects your gear mesh.

        Cheers
        Chris Walker

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        • #5
          Thanks for posting this trick here again Chris, I have utilized it many times now and it does wonders!

          Zack

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          • #6
            Looking good Zack: would have been right at home in the TransAm proxy!

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            • #7
              That sir is one good looking Trans Am Camaro!
              Scott

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